Two Days in Shanghai

We were not surprised to learn that 2 million ex-patriots live in Shanghai, China’s largest city. Of course, it’s the commercial center of China – that accounts for many of ex-pats living here – but it’s also city that never fails to amaze us. It’s wonderfully vibrant, exciting and intriguing.

We planned two days of private excursions during our stay in Shanghai last Friday and Saturday. We began with a visit to the home of Tess Johnston, a Virginia native who has spent much of her life in Asia including the last two or three decades in Shanghai. Tess gave us a fascinating introduction to the city, describing the lovely neighborhoods known today as the French Concession (where she lives), the region once occupied by the British (with their Indian servants) and the highlights and lowlights of the city once known as the Paris of the Orient.

After lunch we continued our visit with a stop at the famed Shanghai Museum and the city’s Urban Planning Museum. In this second place, we saw an enormous model of the city showing the buildings, homes, apartments, parks etc. that will exist in 20 years. We have no doubt that these plans will materialize. We watched Chinese come in to see what will one day take the place of their homes and apartments.

During our second day, we drove out of the city to visit a charming (but crowded) ‘water town’. At one time this was a typical village on the grand canal that once connected Shanghai with Beijing. Though it’s become increasingly touristy, we enjoyed the occasion to witness a slice of China’s history. Next we stopped for a lunch featuring Shanghai’s iconic soup dumplings. We learned to dip each dumpling in a mix of vinegar, ginger and soy sauce, and then place it in a little bowl. Next we pierced the delicate dumpling with our chopsticks to release the soup into the bowl. Finally we ate the entire dumpling followed by the soup or broth left in the bowl. Outstanding! We could not get enough. We were comforted to know that our restaurant had an outpost in Bellevue, Washington.

After some time for shopping, we concluded our day with a little surprise, a traditional Chinese foot passage. We went to a salon where nearly a dozen masseuses were waiting to massage our shoulders, our calves and, finally, really work the bottoms of each foot. Soon we were all fans of this ancient treatment – so relaxing, so good.

Well those were the highlights of two days in Shanghai. I think it’s fair to say that each of us wished we had more time; more time to explore the neighborhoods, more time for the classic Chinese gardens, even more opportunity to dine on the city’s superb cuisine.

It was a memorable event – wish you were here.

Paul and Christine

Shanghai – China’s showpiece -



Our first time to Shanghai was almost twenty years ago. We commented at that time that China had one foot in the 17th century and one foot in the 21st century. Fast forward to 2008 – Shanghai was building everywhere with more cranes in the air than buildings. Still you could still easily find the ‘old Shanghai. Now, just five years later, there aren’t so many cranes in the air but this city can only be dazzled more by perhaps Dubai with its glitter and glam. Shanghai boasts two of the top five “tallest buildings in the world”, has flowers everywhere and is the only city I have ever seen that can (and does) employ enough workers to erect a building in a matter of weeks – not months.

The city is sparkling and fresh, colorful flowers have been recently planted. Hanging flower baskets line the streets and we passed a large wooden frame that was being built in a park only to find the next day it was a ‘living picture frame with two peacocks all made of flowers’.

Where we used to see lots of bicycles on the streets, today we see motorbikes and cars and more freeways than Southern California. Starbucks, KFC and McDonalds are almost as prevalent in Shanghai as in the United States.

At what cost and trade-off has Shanghai made to achieve this status? Our guide explains: ” Many of the workers are brought in from rural areas of China. They are paid about three hundred dollars a month. As many as forty workers may be housed in a two or three bedroom condo where there is only one bathroom and a shared kitchen.”

The average middle class worker makes about $1000 a month. Housing near the center of the city is very expensive. As the government made way for new high rise buildings, people were uprooted and moved to the outer ring of the city (There are three rings). They were given an apartment of about 1000 square feet, which in general was much larger than the 150-200 square feet they had before. But the trade-off was that in the outer ring of the city, they have not yet built up the area with other services such as markets, pharmacies or schools and so these people were forced to take public transportation into the city for their jobs and schools – adding as much as two hours each way to their schedule. Our guide was explaining that it was their hope that after the building was finished for housing and businesses, the government would add in the services to their communities.

Since capitalism has come to China, their society appears to be much more open. However, there is a thin veil that masks communism. Facebook, the other social media and indeed, the Internet is censored or blocked. Where our guide was willing to discuss the ‘cultural revolution’ her parents were part of, she was still cautious enough to talk about this on the bus and not in a public place.

“The best job you can have in China,” she explained, “is to become an official within the government. If you are not working for the government, you have no voice. Rules and regulations change constantly.”

One aspect taken for granted is our vacation time earned at our jobs. For Americans this is typically 2-4 weeks per year. In China, there is no vacation given by employers. If you want to take a few days off, you need to work extra days and time in advance. These can then be tacked onto festival days where businesses are closed but then everyone has the same time off and travel to and fro plus vacation sights are extremely crowded.

The poster city of China, Shanghai, is indeed a beautiful city, boasting international shops, restaurants and attractions. It is just questionable how much of these wonderful services the Chinese can actually afford. Unless of course, you are an official.

Amazing Asia 1

April 22, 2013

After flying for 15-16 hours, we arrived in Hong Kong late in the evening a few days ago; tired but excited to visit this city, an old friend. During our first visit, some 35 years ago, only a single skyscraper towered over Hong Kong’s deepwater harbor, there were still a few men who pulled visitors through the street in rickshaws and junks, with their scallop-shaped sails, still plied the waters between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island.

Visitors still ride the funicular up to the peak of Hong Kong island for stunning views over the city, they go to Aberdeen to see the few families still living permanently on their fishing boats and they visit Stanley Market for inexpensive ties, scarves and other clothing.

After a good night’s sleep, we were ready to get out and re-explore Hong Kong. It has been several years since we were here (2008) and change is very evident. For one thing, this is no longer a ‘bargain city’. If you are coming here to get great deals on electronics, jewelry or clothing, then turn around.

The days are gone where you can find a tailor to fit you for a suit at a great price and have it ready for you in 24-48 hours. We westerners cried foul about labor practices in Asia and now we see the results. Tailors and factory workers only work 8 hours a day, they take Sundays off and the young are finding better jobs than working with a needle all day. Still, if you want good clothing made to your measurements, it’s available – you just pay more for it and wait longer.

The restaurants still serve delicious, fresh food but you can expect to pay more. We dined twice in two medium-good restaurants and paid about $27 per person (without drinks). We ate in two while we were here – Peking Garden and Jade Garden. Both were busy with locals and few westerners. The Peninsula Hotel has a new Speakeasy Bar in the basement floor – definitely worth stopping by for a drink. Also if you eat at Aqua, you will need a reservation but aside from great Japanese/Italian food, you you’ll enjoy a superb view of Hong Kong’s harbor along with its laser light show each evening.


We had forgotten that on Sundays, the Filipino ladies who work here as household help and in other service positions, gather in the heart of Hong Kong’s Central district to eat foods from home, speak their own language and socialize. They brought large panels of cardboard to put on the ground and, for some, to create little walls to shelter them from the winds. We saw a couple of thousand loudly chatting with their Philippine sisters.

We found the people to be welcoming and we loved walking through the neighborhood markets and browsing the antique shops on Hollywood Road. The Star Ferry is still a bargain and, if you are an early riser, you can watch the locals doing their early morning exercises (including tai-chi and ballroom dancing} in the park.

A local recommended that we visit the Chi Lin Buddhist nunnery and the adjacent classical Chinese garden. What a delight! The nunnery included a spectacular Buddhist temple and the classic garden was sublime retreat in the heart of this busy city. Don’t miss it when you visit.

One more unusual sight: We often found lines of women waiting outside shops such as Cartier or Hermes. There was a guard with a rope line! Our local colleague told us that these were Mainland Chinese who came to the city for a day or two of shopping – apparently they brought a purse full of money with them. In fact, we learned that the retailers in the city really depend on these visitors – they are keeping the city going.

We board our lovely Silver Shadow this afternoon and it will feel great to unpack and know that everything on board including all food and drink will be included.

We’ll keep you posted as we set sail for Shanghai. Wish you were here!


Christine and Paul

A charming discovery

Sunday afternoon

Last Thursday we called on Cartagena, Colombia. We had visited Cartagena 10-15 years ago and enjoyed the visit but did not find the experience extraordinary. In the subsequent years, Colombia endured a bloody civil war, extensive corruption and drug cartels. However Colombia has changed, the dynamic country is gradually joining the ranks of some of the other South American countries that enjoy good government and strong economies.

Typical ship tours bring visitors to the old fort built to defend the city from pirates and attempts by Spain (and others) to retake the city, to the city’s cathedral, the former dungeons (now filled with souvenir shops) and to shops selling emeralds in the modern Miami-like section of the city.

Our visit took place near the end of the region’s rainy season; it was hot and humid. So we elected to take taxi cabs directly to the old section of the city that dates back to Spanish colonial days. What a discovery! Though not every block has been restored to its original grandeur, much of the old quarter resonates with bright colors, tropical flora and magnificent architecture.

One of the highlights is the Sofitel Santa Clara Hotel. After passing by, we could not resist taking a look inside. Though the doormen discourage casual visitors from wandering around inside, our travel credentials allowed us to look at the stunning public areas. Don’t know if we’ll return anytime soon to Cartagena, but this would be our favorite base.

Meanwhile our taxi drivers were very friendly and patient as we explored the city – they did everything to make us feel welcome. The other locals we encountered extended similar hospitality.

Incidentally the day of our visit was a celebration of 488 years of liberation from Spain – Cartegena was the first city in South America to enjoy this independence. The locals were in a festive mood as they began a day and a half of carnival parties.

We attached a few photos to give you a feel for old Cartagena – we wish we could have stayed longer.

 

Yesterday, Panama City

An expected turn in our journey… (one of several, thanks to Hurricane Sandy)

One of our clients experienced a severe medical problem (his family knows about this) on board our cruise ship. The ship’s medical department felt that they could not treat him successfully on board and made plans to send him to a hospital in Panama City. Needless to say, Christine and I accompanied the patient and his companion ashore to assist in any way we could.

Though the ambulance to the hospital seemed pretty ‘third world’, the private hospital (Punta Pacifica) was definitely up-to-date. We were not surprised to learn that it was affiliated with Johns Hopkins Medical Center. Many of the physicians spoke English with an American accent. And like an American hospital, they did not do too much with the patient until the insurance/finances were in place. Fortunately the patient had travel insurance. While the terms of the insurance were not, in our opinion, ideal, the insurance was good enough. After a frustrating exchange of faxes, signing of indemnity forms and releases of medical information, the insurance company gave the hospital their guarantee of coverage – in essence a guarantee of payment. (In our opinion, there was too much paperwork required by this insurance company when the patient needed to be treated.)

We were glad we were there to assist with language problems, insurance formalities and hospital procedures. We found a Marriott Courtyard hotel just an 8-10 minute walk from the hospital for his companion, made the necessary reservations and made certain that she felt comfortable with the situation.

While we missed seeing more of Panama (a maiden call for the Crystal Symphony and our first visit too), we were pleased to be there to expedite his care. Once again we found friendly, helpful people and were pleased that the hospital had such a high standard.

Finally, we’ve received word today that the patient has been successfully treated and that if everything continues to look good, should be able to return home in a few days.

Wish you were here!

 

 

It seemed like a good idea…

Sunday afternoon, Key West

Nearly a year ago, we planned a late fall cruise on the beautiful Crystal Symphony from New York City through the Panama Canal to Los Angeles. At the time, it seemed like a good idea to go early to New York City to see some of the new developments, to dine well and to enjoy an evening of theater.

But we really dodged a bullet:

  • We set off early Sunday morning with a non-stop flight to New York City. At departure time, 6:55 am, our pilot told us that there was a minor mechanical problem with the aircraft that would take a few moments to reset. A few moments turned into 20 minutes, then 40 minutes, then 90 minutes. Finally we were told to disembark the aircraft and come back at 2 pm, 7 hours after our scheduled departure time. 30 minutes after we returned to the terminal, our flight was cancelled altogether. This was to be the last flight from Portland to New York City for several days.

     

  • A few of our guests had gone in early to New York City and stayed at our hotel, Le Parker Meridien. However the high winds from the hurricane blew over a portion of a huge crane that dangled over the street next to the hotel. New York’s Fire Department, fearing a catastrophe if the crane should fall, required everyone to evacuate from the Parker Meridien quickly, leaving all their belongings behind.

     

  • The restaurants we were scheduled to visit closed along with our scheduled Broadway performance of Evita.

     

  • Finally, the Port Authority of New York City cancelled the arrival of our ship due to damage to the pier, lack of electricity and debris in the harbor.

     

  • The ship, filled with passengers from the previous cruise, sailed directly to our first port of call, Charleston (South Carolina), through extremely stormy seas. Some said that it was one of the roughest voyages ever.

     

  • Two of our guests had to take a 13-hour bus ride from New York City to meet the ship in Charleston.

     

Yes, we dodged a bullet. The rest of us arrived early into beautiful Charleston (the hurricane had bypassed Charleston earlier with just a few clouds and drops of rain.) The weather was beautiful and the welcome reminded us of the South’s legendary hospitality.

We all took part in an interesting shore excursion hosted by a local woman who gave us access to a number of private homes and gardens – some of them dating to pre-colonial days – a delightful experience.

We’re all well and sailing under a warm sun on calm seas.

Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine

Surprising kindness

We’re just concluding our journey through France that began with a visit to our beautiful villa in Provence and ended with a week-long riverboat journey from Arles, near the Mediterranean, up the Rhone River to the center of France at the beautiful city of Lyon. Overall, it’s been a superb experience. I’m sure our returning guests will tell you all about the details.

Sometimes we hear that the French are not particularly helpful or friendly. Let me give you a few examples of unexpected kindness.

One of our guests was unexpectedly hospitalized. I went along with his wife to help her cope with the French hospital system. After a preliminary examination, the physicians decided to move him to another hospital. Unfortunately there were no people at hand that spoke English to explain to us what was happening. After we received the confusing news about the transfer, a young man stepped in to provide a more detailed explanation. He described why they were moving him – in flawless English – and helped us navigate our way through the hospital. He called us a taxi and instructed the driver to take us past an ATM. As we boarded the taxi, we asked him what role he played at the hospital. His surprising answer was that he had just brought his sister into the emergency room and stepped in to help. Amazing.

Our taxi driver to the next hospital, about 50 miles away, spoke a few words of English. When we arrived at the next hospital, a very large medical center, instead of driving off, he came in with us and spent about 20 minutes helping us find the patient (who had been transported by ambulance), speak with the staff and situate ourselves comfortably to await the results of further testing. He wouldn’t accept a proffered tip for his extra time and invaluable assistance.

While these two incidents were clearly beyond the call of duty, we encountered friendly people just about everywhere we went. Language is still something of a barrier in France (compared to, say, Germany, the Netherlands, Switzerland or even Italy) but smiles and an undemanding attitude go a long way.

We saw beautiful country, dined like royalty and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. The hospitality we received from the locals played an important part in the success of our journey.

Wish you had been with us!

Paul and Christine

Savoir faire in Eygalieres

Saturday evening, 6 October

The harbor in Cassis

When we left our lovely villa this morning, grey clouds muted the morning sunlight. However as we approached the Mediterranean, the skies cleared to allow the region’s unique, intense sunlight to flood the colorful landscape. In the little fishing village of Cassis, we boarded our private boat to cruise through a series of 8 inlets (calenques, in French). Without a whisper of a breeze, we sailed into one mini-fjord after another. The white limestone cliffs dotted with rugged pine trees soared high above us while the waters below took on a deep blue green hue. In some spots you could see the sandy ocean floor some 30 feet below.

When we returned to the village about noon, we stopped for a classic bouillabaisse lunch in a restaurant overlooking the picturesque harbor. The wine? It was a classic Provencal dry rosé. When we returned to the villa this evening, our dinner began with an appetizer of eggplant and ratatouille vegetables. Next we dined on a superb rack of lamb – ever so delicate – accompanied by a delightful red wine and followed by an assortment of house-made ice creams. The young chef received a standing ovation. (And it was not just the wine talking.)

But, we’ve skipped over the beginning.

Last Thursday everyone arrived at the Marseille –Provence airport. One couple was a couple hours later; another was nowhere to be found. Inquiries directed to Air France yielded no information other than a “we cannot tell you where they are for privacy concerns”. Finally, we called our Portland office. They contacted Delta to find that there had been a significant delay in their departure from Seattle and that they would be arriving at 8 pm in the evening instead of their scheduled 2:35 PM arrival. So our bus departed with all the others and we waited for our last couple to arrive. We got to know the airport much better than we wanted.

Peter Mayle’s Luberon

Do you remember the delight book by Peter Mayle, A Year in Provence? He told stories about buying a simple home in one of the delightful hillside villages and the challenges of new construction and confrontations with the local bureaucracy. He mentioned places such as Gordes, Menerbes and Rousillon; all tiny villages built a thousand years ago on top of the hillsides of the Luberon. On Friday we began our exploration of Provence with a visit to the first and the third of these charming places. A great beginning since we soon fell in love with the delightful lifestyle of both places.

We’re loving our villa, probably gaining a little weight, enjoying our pleasant circle of travelers and savoring L’arte de Vivre in beautiful Provence.

Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine