Hindsight is often the best lens to evaluate good travels. What do you remember vividly, fondly or, occasionally, a place you don’t need to revisit?
Just a year ago we flew to Incheon, South Korea, an intermediate stop on our journey to Southeast Asia. (As we see the pictures of North Korea’s Kim Jung Il’s funeral, we think back to our gray, icy cold day in South Korea, just a few miles from the demilitarized zone. Our trip would soon take us to Vietnam and Cambodia including a cruise on the Mekong from Tonle Sap Lake near Angkor Wat to a river port not far from Saigon.
Hanoi
Coming of age in the 60s, in the midst of the Vietnam conflict, I could not imagine every visiting Hanoi. (And thoroughly enjoying the experience.) From our base at the classic Hotel Metropole with its French-Vietnamese style, we explored this vibrant city. Built around a series of lakes and the Red River, we filled our camera’s memory cards with hundreds of photos. We think back fondly to our cooking class at the Hanoi Cooking School (including a great market visit and a great lunch.) We enjoyed our visit to the old city where each street is named after a particular craft or trade – we would gladly return for more. Our guide took us to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum where we were instructed not to talk or put our hands in our pocket as we visited the embalmed hero (the years in the refrigerator have not been kind to him).
As much as we liked the city, we were not prepared for the heavy-hand of the communist government. Patriotic posters filled the streets. In some places community loudspeakers broadcast party propaganda twice daily. While the people were often very kind, one should avoid any provocation of the unsmiling police.
Long high on our wish lists, we enjoyed the opportunity to board a ‘luxury junk’ (quite a pleasant experience) for a 24-hour cruise through the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Halong Bay. Unfortunately our weather was cold and the skies gray — not the best time for Kodachrome style postcard photos. Still it’s a must see in this part of the world.
Angkor Wat
We really enjoyed our visit to the massive temple complex of Angkor Wat. For me, the visit was enhanced by a private guide that took us to the temple complexes before dawn to watch the sun rise on the various monuments. Though pretty crowded with visitors, Angkor Wat really captured our imagination. I’d like to see it again. We also enjoyed the surrounding city of Siem Reap. Generally modern and clean, Siem Reap surprised us. While here, we suggest a stay (or at least a good meal) at the Hotel de la Paix. Overall our visit to Siem Reap and all of Cambodia was enhanced by the charm of the Cambodian people. We felt very welcome. Furthermore, Cambodia offers exceptional value for our travel dollar. There aren’t many more places where we can say that these days.
I was intrigued by the young boys and girls. Well-groomed and polite, these attractive young people would approach us and practice their English. Some were probably hoping for a little donation but many were just anxious to meet foreign visitors and practice their language. In spite of the many visitors that come to Cambodia, generally hospitable Cambodia remains pleasantly unspoiled.
Phnom Penh
When many visitors think of Cambodia’s capital, they cannot separate the city from the genocide committed by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. During our visit we went to see the site of the Killing Fields as well as the notorious prison in the city’s center. Just as visiting World War II concentration camps gives travelers an important and jarring perspective on life and inhumanity, these visits in Cambodia make one question how such tragedies can happen. How can we become so evil? On the positive side, the magnificent Royal Palace complex will stun you with its architectural beauty.
A final note: except for Hanoi, we suggest a visit between December and March. “Steamy Hot” just barely describes heat and humidity that pervades this region for the remainder of the year. With its more northerly location, Hanoi is more like Hong Kong with wonderful spring and fall seasons.
Beginning in the 6th Century, a basilica was built on the site of an ancient place of worship constructed by the Visagoths. During the Islamic period in Spain this church was destroyed in order to build a mosque on the site in 785 AD. No ordinary mosque, this was to be the most important Islamic place of worship in all in the West. Two subsequent additions enlarged the mosque to a truly impressive structure. In 1236, when the Christians reconquered Cordoba, the mosque was ‘purified’ and then converted back into a Christian cathedral. (
cruise ships (1070 guests), over 600 crew members assure a top quality, personalized experience.
it’s spoiled.
came up to me and asked, in English, “Where are you from?” She continued, “What is your name?” “How many brothers and sisters do you have?” “How long will you stay?” These are, of course, fairly easy phrases to memorize but the little girl went beyond those. When we asked her name, she said it was “Monika”. Of course, that was her English name; after all, her Cambodian name would be very difficult to remember.
Not everyone speaks English; not everyone is as helpful or friendly. But our sense is that this is a great place to visit.
Unlike the temperatures in the north of the country, the air is quite warm and more humid. On Sunday we reach our final destination, Saigon, where we’ll spend the evening. There our group of travelers will dine in the former home of US Ambassador to South Vietnam, Henry Cabot Lodge. The next day, Monday, we begin our journey home.
There we boarded a vessel described as a ‘luxury junk’ – the term made us a little nervous. (Of course we checked it out long before we traveled and felt very comfortable with it.) When we boarded the comforts and the warm hospitality soon erased any concerns; it was a great experience. Shortly after boarding the captain began navigating through the picturesque limestone islands called ‘karsts’. Even though it was colder than we expected and, unfortunately, overcast, the experience was magical, worth every moment of our journey.
about 30 km from Palma. We enjoyed the old clanking train and the marvelous scenery along the way.
Today the ship’s chef arranged a festive buffet in the ship’s galley; it was fun to look behind the scenes and to select from Indian curries to barbecued ribs and everything in between.
The participants in our Autumn in the Mediterranean Signature Journey arrived in Rome last Thursday, weary but anxious to experience an insider’s look at Umbria. Later in the afternoon we reached our accommodations located high in the hills of the Umbrian countryside, Villa Hotel Monte di Solare, an elegant and welcoming hideaway not far from the region’s capital, Perugia. (With its fine restaurant, spacious rooms, pampering spa and even a restored, consecrated chapel, we think this villa hotel is worth a special journey. The staff works hard to accommodate their guests’ wishes; for example, on the day we departed, the hotel had arranged for a few guests to go hunting for Umbria’s prized white truffles with a local expert. Umm.)
For lunch we stopped for an impressive tasting of the region’s best wines and olive oils in the little village of Spello. The proprietor of the enoteca, a real showman, led us through two white wines, four impressive red wines and two extra virgin olive oils as we dined on pastas and a superb Mediterranean salad with tuna. The salad was dressed with a 25-year old balsamic vinegar that had taken on a delightful sweetness characteristic of aged balsamico. Though the wines were marvelous with foods to match, our favorite item was a simple bruschetta, peasant bread coated with a superb olive oil and topped with chopped ripe tomatoes and fresh basil. So simple; so good. The experience made it challenging to go into Perugia that evening for dinner. (But, we rallied and had a fantastic time because you can’t have enough good Italian fare).
