Kotor, Montenegro

It’s a glorious morning! About 6 am we sailed into southern Europe’s only fjord, the Bay of Kotor. Surrounded on both sides by towering mountains, our ship feels small. Soon we’ll go ashore to explore the old walled city of Kotor, a fortified town built by the Venetians.

We’ve enjoyed some wonderful days. Two days ago we sailed into the Croatian port of Sibenik, where we embarked on one of our Signature Journey excursions. Under the care of a young but passionate guide, we drove to nearby Split, Croatia, to begin our day. As you may recall, the Roman emperor Diocletian was the first to actually retire from office instead of dying or losing his office to a military coup. Rather than going into an assisted living community, Diocletian chose this handsome seaport to build an opulent palace. Over the centuries, the locals took over parts of the palace for their own accommodations, however one can still see some the Roman grandeur. Our guide maintains that the cathedral (once a Roman temple) is the oldest Christian church in the world.

After a delightful lunch in the harbor overlooking the grand promenade of Split, we drove along the coastline to explore the medieval village of Trogir. Though the buildings have been modernized with plumbing and electricity, much remains untouched from the middle ages. Delightful; it was a pity we did not have more time. All in all, though, a great day.

Dubrovnik: Yesterday the Seabourn Quest sailed into the waters surrounding the walled city of Dubrovnik, once one of the Mediterranean’s great sea powers. When we first visited Dubrovnik 15-20 years ago, shortly after the conflict in the Balkans came to an end, there was not much activity. The city had been shelled heavily by Serb forces perched on the mountain that dominates the city. The people were grim and the shops mostly empty. What a difference a decade makes. Entrepreneurs have blossomed: many of the old stone buildings have been taken over with shops and restaurants on every corner. Recently a funicular was completed to take visitors to the top of the city’s mountain for stunning panoramas. Surprisingly, in addition to our small ship, four large ships docked in Dubrovnik yesterday, filling the narrow streets with tourists. We stayed in late so the city was virtually ours after all the others sailed away late in the afternoon.

Meanwhile, we’re all healthy and enjoying the wonderful sunshine (it’s expected to be nearly 80⁰ today).

Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine

It feels great to be in the Adriatic under glorious sunshine.  But it didn’t start out that way.

On Monday, everyone arrived in Venice right on schedule.  Within an hour or so, we boarded the beautiful, new Seabourn Quest; a stunning all-suite ship accommodating just 450 guests.  (Contrast that with some recent ships with 5,000 passengers plus crew.) 

We all made it on board with some sunshine but before we sailed from Venice, the heavens drenched the city.  Locals tell us that they are going stir-crazy after an unusual month or more of downpours.  Nevertheless as we sailed past the incredible panorama of Piazza San Marcos and the Grand Canal, the rain stopped, leaving us with good viewing. 

Yesterday we sailed into the tiny country of Slovenia, a former province of the federation called Yugoslavia.  Slovenia was the first region to declare its independence from Yugoslavia in 1991 (after defending their independence in a 10-day war), the first to join the European Union and the first to use the Euro.  It’s a beautiful country with rugged Alps, high alpine lakes and a well-kept countryside.  The freeways leading into the capital, Ljubljana, are modern and in fine condition.  The capital, itself, is a beautiful city with handsome art nouveau architecture.  It might remind you somewhat of Salzburg (without all the tourists). 

Our charming guide gave us a great introduction to the country on our 80-minute ride into the city.  We took the funicular up to the castle for great views; however the intermittent rain kept us from seeing the Italian city of Trieste, just several miles away.  By the time we finished lunch the rain was coming in torrents.  So we rounded up some taxis to take us to our next stop, a historical museum built on an old Roman site.  There a young university professor took us through Slovenia’s complex history.  The most interesting part of his presentation was his description of life under Marshall Tito in Yugoslavia and Slovenia’s decision to declare its independence.  We were worried that a good lunch with local wines would combine with jetlag to put everyone to sleep.  However the professor’s story was so engaging that there were only a few yawns and head nods.  All in all, a very pleasant day.

This morning we awakened in Ravenna, Italy, under sunny skies.  This relatively unknown city became the capital of the Roman Empire when Rome fell in 402 AD.  Though a seemingly modest city today, Ravenna contains wonderful cultural treasures well preserved from its glory days as the capital of the Empire.  In particular several of us visited the incredible Byzantine mosaics that were created 1600 years ago.  The artwork is outstanding and the colors are still rich and vibrant.

Tomorrow we arrive in Opatija, the first of three outstanding ports in Croatia.  It should be fun and we’re supposed to have good weather.  We’ll tell you about that in a few days.  Meanwhile we’re all doing fine and wish you were here!

Paul and Christine

We find that many of our clients consult Trip Advisor regularly as well. We encourage that.

However, a few words of caution:

There have been problems, particularly concerning hotels, with ‘planted’ reviews, i.e, a hotel has arranged for a number of reviewers to send in glowing reports about their hotel to increase the hotel’s ratings.  I suspect there are also times when these same people may send in reviews that are strongly negative about a competing hotel.

The other caveat has to do with the perspective of the reviewer.  For example if a budget traveler finds him/herself in a deluxe hotel for the first time, they may create a wonderful review of their experience.  However a traveler who typically stays in deluxe hotels may review that same hotel in a more critical light.  In other words, you can not always know the built-in bias or perspective of the reviewer.

Finally there are always a few reviewers that are not pleased by any hotel, restaurant or attraction; they always find something to complain about.

Solution?  One of my veteran colleagues in the travel industry suggests that when you look up a hotel or restaurant in Trip Advisor, throw out both the top 4-5 reviews and the bottom 4-5 reviews, the extreme ones.  Rather rely more on the reviews that are more tempered in their judgment.

Finally when I’m searching for a hotel, I try to check other sources as well, such as travel guide books, travel industry reviews and suggestions from local colleagues.  This approach  helps me focus in on the best hotel for my stay or one of my good clients.

Paul

I knew about Vieques, but just a little. I vaguely understood that it was an island off the coast of Puerto Rico used by the US Navy for target practice until local protests forced the Navy to give the island back to the residents. What I did not know was that during the entire time the navy was shelling the island, there were locals living on Vieques, locals born on the island that had to put up with the thunderous booms shaking their island and their homes every time the Navy began shooting or bombing.

About 18 months ago, W Hotels built a charming hotel on a beautiful beach they call W Retreats. As a member of Travel + Leisure magazine’s travel advisory board, we met here for a few days. I’ve got to admit, it’s tough to stay inside when stunning swimming pools and a beautiful beach beckon.

While I am not a big fan of some W Hotels with their occasional “We’re so hip” attitude; at Vieques I’m finding the hospitality is warm and welcoming and the facilities are superb. I would come back in a heartbeat. In addition to the hotel’s fine restaurants, there are some great, casual restaurants not far away on the island. If you visit Vieques, don‘t miss El Quenepo.

For those taking cruises into the Caribbean, we suggest basing your cruise out of San Juan, Puerto Rico. Instead of visiting just a few islands in a week (this is what happens when your cruise departs from Florida), when you cruise from San Juan, you are already in the very heart of the Eastern Caribbean. Great places such as Barbados, St. Maarten, St Barts, the British Virgin Islands, Martinique etc. are just a few cruising hours away. Most 7-day cruises departing from San Juan visit a
different island almost every day.

Though the flight to San Juan takes a couple hours more than flying to Miami, the cost is not all that much more. I looked at flights in September, as an example, and found that a flight from Oregon to Miami cost about $435 pp while a flight to San Juan was just $120 more.

We suggest combining 2-3 days of blissful beach and spa time in Vieques with your cruise from San Juan.

My brief experience in Vieques reminds me of my first visit to Cancun in the late 1970s. When we arrived, there were just a few hotels. Of course, that changed in a big way; come to the W Retreat in Vieques now. This too will change.

She explained that her mother recently called to see if she planned to cancel her Presidents Day cruise, but Wendy’s leaving her family’s cruise vacation plans unchanged. First of all she reminds us that the chance of a fatality white driving to the pier is 1 in 7,000 while the odds of a fatality on a cruise ship are 1 in six million.

However, Wendy is taking a few extra precautions. Of course she will make certain the entire family takes part in the lifeboat drill and that they memorize the location of their life boat and muster station. She will also see that sufficient life jackets are available in her cabin for the entire family (and that they are the right size). She’ll also look on board for the location where extra life jackets are stowed for those passengers who might not have time to return to their staterooms to retrieve their jackets. Finally, she’ll bring along a little flashlight, just in case of a power failure.

Today every cruise line and every captain is now under extra scrutiny – safety standards will  be elevated higher than ever. Notwithstanding, we choose our cruise lines carefully. First of all, we avoid cruise lines that broadcast every announcement in several languages. In the event of an issue, it could take some time to communicate with all the passengers. We also select those cruise lines that take safety seriously. While we dread the life boat drills, we appreciate that they take place. And we applaud those cruise lines that take roll during these drills to account for every passenger on the ship.

Finally, we’ll avoid today’s giant ships.  Evacuating a 4,000-passenger vessel must be far more difficult than ships ranging in size from 200-2000 passengers.  This is a subject authorities will explore in more depth in the months and years to come.

We share the sorrow of those families that have lost their loved ones on the Costa Concordia. At the same time it was heartwarming to learn about the hospitality of the residents of the little Tuscan island of Giglio who took so many passengers into their homes until they could begin their homeward journey. And we applaud the coast guard captain who commanded the irresponsible captain to reboard his sinking ship and assist with the evacuation. Vado Bordo, Cazzo!

Seabourn in the Aegean

We plan to cruise in late April through the beautiful Adriatic and the Aegean on the new Seabourn Quest. We can’t wait.

Just a year ago we flew to Incheon, South Korea, an intermediate stop on our journey to Southeast Asia. (As we see the pictures of North Korea’s Kim Jung Il’s funeral, we think back to our gray, icy cold day in South Korea, just a few miles from the demilitarized zone. Our trip would soon take us to Vietnam and Cambodia including a cruise on the Mekong from Tonle Sap Lake near Angkor Wat to a river port not far from Saigon.

Hanoi

Coming of age in the 60s, in the midst of the Vietnam conflict, I could not imagine every visiting Hanoi. (And thoroughly enjoying the experience.) From our base at the classic Hotel Metropole with its French-Vietnamese style, we explored this vibrant city. Built around a series of lakes and the Red River, we filled our camera’s memory cards with hundreds of photos. We think back fondly to our cooking class at the Hanoi Cooking School (including a great market visit and a great lunch.) We enjoyed our visit to the old city where each street is named after a particular craft or trade – we would gladly return for more. Our guide took us to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum where we were instructed not to talk or put our hands in our pocket as we visited the embalmed hero (the years in the refrigerator have not been kind to him).

As much as we liked the city, we were not prepared for the heavy-hand of the communist government. Patriotic posters filled the streets. In some places community loudspeakers broadcast party propaganda twice daily. While the people were often very kind, one should avoid any provocation of the unsmiling police.

Halong Bay

Long high on our wish lists, we enjoyed the opportunity to board a ‘luxury junk’ (quite a pleasant experience) for a 24-hour cruise through the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Halong Bay. Unfortunately our weather was cold and the skies gray — not the best time for Kodachrome style postcard photos. Still it’s a must see in this part of the world.

Angkor Wat

We really enjoyed our visit to the massive temple complex of Angkor Wat. For me, the visit was enhanced by a private guide that took us to the temple complexes before dawn to watch the sun rise on the various monuments. Though pretty crowded with visitors, Angkor Wat really captured our imagination. I’d like to see it again. We also enjoyed the surrounding city of Siem Reap. Generally modern and clean, Siem Reap surprised us. While here, we suggest a stay (or at least a good meal) at the Hotel de la Paix. Overall our visit to Siem Reap and all of Cambodia was enhanced by the charm of the Cambodian people. We felt very welcome. Furthermore, Cambodia offers exceptional value for our travel dollar. There aren’t many more places where we can say that these days.

I was intrigued by the young boys and girls. Well-groomed and polite, these attractive young people would approach us and practice their English. Some were probably hoping for a little donation but many were just anxious to meet foreign visitors and practice their language. In spite of the many visitors that come to Cambodia, generally hospitable Cambodia remains pleasantly unspoiled.

Phnom Penh

When many visitors think of Cambodia’s capital, they cannot separate the city from the genocide committed by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. During our visit we went to see the site of the Killing Fields as well as the notorious prison in the city’s center. Just as visiting World War II concentration camps gives travelers an important and jarring perspective on life and inhumanity, these visits in Cambodia make one question how such tragedies can happen. How can we become so evil? On the positive side, the magnificent Royal Palace complex will stun you with its architectural beauty.

A final note: except for Hanoi, we suggest a visit between December and March. “Steamy Hot” just barely describes heat and humidity that pervades this region for the remainder of the year. With its more northerly location, Hanoi is more like Hong Kong with wonderful spring and fall seasons.

Actually, when our Crystal cruise concluded in Lisbon early in December, we took the opportunity to visit Paris before we returned home. We wanted to meet with our local contact in France who will help us arrange our October 2012 villa program in Provence. And, well, that’s as good an excuse as any for a few days in Paris.

We have more or less avoided Paris for the last several years in favor of the charms of France’s countryside. When we landed at Charles de Gaulle, it was cold and the grey skies were heavy. The congested traffic slowed our transfer into the city to a crawl. Had we made a mistake in coming?

Finally we reached our boutique hotel, the Espirit St. Germain near St. Sulpice (the church that played an important role in the Da Vinci Code) on Paris’ Rive Gauche. In spite of a slow check-in, the hotel looked great. On each side of the small registration desk, we found two welcoming lounges; they seemed more like living rooms than hotel lobbies. Each guest is invited to help themselves throughout the day to complimentary cocktails, wines and champagne and a good variety of soft drinks. When we reached our attractive room, the manager pointed out the complimentary fruit, a complimentary bottle of red wine, and mini-bar stocked with soft drinks and, finally, good Wi-Fi (all complimentary). The magic of Paris was beginning to arrive..

That afternoon we began the first of our three days wandering and exploring the delightful neighborhoods of Paris’ Left Bank. Just a block or so away we found a great indoor market. We drooled at the dozens of cheeses, wonderful varieties of meats and fresh seafood, even a section with Italian specialties. As we explored the surrounding area we encountered dozens of tempting little boutiques: chocolatiers, fashions (Christine loved the outrageous hat shop across the street), children’s toys and clothing etc. We also found dozens of highly specialized shops. One, for example, only sold little toy figures such as soldiers, kings, queens, politicians, farmers etc.; another shop specialized in first editions of old books, a third only sold hand-crafted writing papers. All offered superb quality.

The weather was cold but clear. It was a small price to pay for all the pleasures of our visit. Tourists were few but the locals were out shopping for Christmas. On December 8 we thought we heard carolers outside our hotel. When we opened the curtains, hundreds of Parisians were singing in a procession as they headed to St. Sulpice to celebrate the religious holiday of the Immaculate Conception. On another evening, when we crossed the Boulevard St. Germain des Pres, we saw that the entire street had been decorated with lights in the shape of champagne flutes with bubbles rising to the top. It was three of our best days of 2011.

Over the years we have really enjoyed our visits to Europe as the holidays approach. Dress warmly and savor the pleasures.

Scenes from the Paris Metro

After a day at sea on Tuesday cruising south along the coastline of Spain, we sailed into the sunny port city of Malaga. Though a few of us stayed in Malaga for the day, most took one of the ship’s excursions either to Grenada, to see the famed Alhambra, or to the historic city of Cordoba.

We’ve often felt that the Alhambra remains one of Europe’s most beautiful palaces. Perched in the hills overlooking Grenada, the Moors constructed the palace in classic North African style, with tranquil fountains and graceful reflecting pools. The palace’s Courtyard of the Lions remains one of the most beautiful spots in the country.

Thanks to Spain’s high-speed trains, another destination has recently been opened to cruise visitors, Cordoba. Early Wednesday morning we boarded a sleek new train that raced between Malaga and Seville at speeds approaching 250 km/hour (about 150 mph). Settled into comfortable seats we traveled quietly through the olive-tree covered countryside for about 70 minutes. The only indication of our speed was the occasional swaying of the car and, of course, watching automobiles creep (relatively speaking) along the highway.

The modern city of Cordoba does not seem to offer much to the visitor; rather most of its treasures are situated in the old historic section. To reach this area, we walked across a stone bridge built by the Romans. Once across the bridge we made our way through a warren of narrow streets, the old Jewish Quarter, to visit an historic synagogue. Filled with shops and restaurants, we spent the better part of our morning in this quarter. However we saved the best for last, the famed “Mesquita” of Cordoba.

Beginning in the 6^th Century, a basilica was built on the site of an ancient place of worship constructed by the Visagoths. During the Islamic period in Spain this church was destroyed in order to build a mosque on the site in 785 AD. No ordinary mosque, this was to be the most important Islamic place of worship in all in the West. Two subsequent additions enlarged the mosque to a truly impressive structure. In 1236, when the Christians reconquered Cordoba, the mosque was ‘purified’ and then converted back into a Christian cathedral. (www.catedraldecordobe.es) Today, in the center of the mosque’s hundreds of pillars and colorful arches, an impressive cathedral has been constructed. It’s one of the most amazing sights in Europe. Don’t miss it if you have an opportunity.

Last night, about midnight, we crossed through the Straits of Gibraltar to land, this morning, in Cadiz. Many guests headed for the marvelous cultural capitol of Spain, Seville; others explored the old city of Cadiz, where many explorers of the New World began their voyage.

Elaine Durst has caught a bug in her chest (but she’s doing better already); otherwise we’re all enjoying the Crystal Serenity and visiting Spain in the late fall sunshine.

Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine

In port in Cadiz, Spain

The glorious Mediterranean sunshine has lifted our spirits as we sail along the coastline of Spain.

Scheduled to sail from Barcelona last Sunday evening, many of us came in a few days early. Though most of us have been in Barcelona before, the city looks better than ever. The streets were meticulously clean, graffiti was noticeably absent and the locals were welcoming. We had forgotten just how much there is to see in Barcelona and how much we enjoyed the visit.

Several of us stayed at the Hotel Claris, once one of Barcelona’s grande dame hotels. Since we had not visited in several years, we were shocked when we arrived. Spanish designers had transformed the Claris into a contemporary masterpiece. From the inviting lobby to the exquisite roof-top terrace with its swimming pool, restaurant and views over the city, the Claris has rejoined the ranks of one of Spain’s best hotels.

Regardless of the charms of Barcelona, it felt great to board the Crystal Serenity, one of the world’s top 4-5 cruise ships. However the ship’s departure time was a bit close for Bob and Irma Miller. Scheduled to arrive about 3 pm on sailing day, their departure flight from Palm Springs had been cancelled. They jumped into a taxi and sped towards Los Angeles in an attempt to board their Lufthansa flight to Frankfurt. Alas, they arrived too late; however, Lufthansa placed them on a Swiss International flight to Zurich. With their connection in Switzerland, they only arrived in Barcelona at 7:05 pm on Sunday evening, 85 minutes before the ship would be closed for boarding. We were able to talk our way into the airport’s secure customs area to assist the Millers. Fortunately their baggage came out quickly so we found a taxi and headed for the pier. The ship’s staff was waiting for us as we arrived at the pier. Shortly after we boarded, the ship dropped its lines and began its journey.

Recently the Crystal Serenity underwent a complete makeover that replaced most of the carpets, fabrics and furnishings. Today she looks fresh and very inviting. Though larger than most of the other top cruise ships (1070 guests), over 600 crew members assure a top quality, personalized experience.

On Monday we stopped in Valencia for a visit. Though the city is known for its oranges and as the home of paella and the Lladro porcelain factory, Valencia has not been regarded as a particularly appealing destination for travelers. Today Valencia’s inner city is clean and inviting with grand buildings that remind us of the city’s wealth. Spain’s best known architect has designed an incredible complex known as the City of Arts and Sciences with a monumental aquarium, an I-Max theater and concert facilities. It was fun to explore the city’s large central market filled with dozens of tidy food stalls displaying Spain’s iconic hams and wonderful arrangements of vegetables. We really enjoyed Valencia and look forward to returning for more.

On Wednesday we called on Malaga. Some guests took an excursion to Grenada to visit the famed Al Hambra; some stayed in Malaga; and 6-7 of us will board one of Spain’s high-speed trains to visit the historic Spanish city of Cordoba. We’ll share our experiences with you in a few days’ time.

Meanwhile we’re all well and enjoying our visit. Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine

Though I vaguely knew of this boutique hotel that had once accommodated JFK, Bette Davis and Claudette Colbert, it was never top-of-mind until a recent 4-day stay in November.

A few years ago, a $60 million renovation turned The Surrey into a precious gem. Contemporary (without edginess or attitude), comfortable, welcoming, warm and personal – these are the descriptives that come to mind.

The rooms are spacious, well-planned for comfort (or for work) and highlighted by luxurious Duxiana beds and a pillow menu. You know that the bar, the restaurant and rooms service will be special since these functions are managed by celebrity chef Daniel Boulud.

Unlike the big hotels, the staff soon learns your name; for me, this was the best part. You can also expect warm, friendly and personalized service. They go out of their way to say ‘yes’.

Look carefully around the low-key lobby area for stunning works of art. My favorite is an arresting portrait of Kate Moss. Closer inspection reveals that this is not a photo; rather an amazing tapestry hung discreetly just past the elevators.

Located just steps from Central Park on the Upper East Side, they share the neighborhood with a number of museums (they enjoy a special relationship with the Whitney Museum), galleries, boutiques and restaurants. Walking in the neighborhood is great and comfortable.

We hope to go back before too long.

If you’re interested, let us help you become a VIP (and we’ll include continental breakfast and a spa credit) at The Surrey for your next New York City visit.