We find that many of our clients consult Trip Advisor regularly as well. We encourage that.

However, a few words of caution:

There have been problems, particularly concerning hotels, with ‘planted’ reviews, i.e, a hotel has arranged for a number of reviewers to send in glowing reports about their hotel to increase the hotel’s ratings.  I suspect there are also times when these same people may send in reviews that are strongly negative about a competing hotel.

The other caveat has to do with the perspective of the reviewer.  For example if a budget traveler finds him/herself in a deluxe hotel for the first time, they may create a wonderful review of their experience.  However a traveler who typically stays in deluxe hotels may review that same hotel in a more critical light.  In other words, you can not always know the built-in bias or perspective of the reviewer.

Finally there are always a few reviewers that are not pleased by any hotel, restaurant or attraction; they always find something to complain about.

Solution?  One of my veteran colleagues in the travel industry suggests that when you look up a hotel or restaurant in Trip Advisor, throw out both the top 4-5 reviews and the bottom 4-5 reviews, the extreme ones.  Rather rely more on the reviews that are more tempered in their judgment.

Finally when I’m searching for a hotel, I try to check other sources as well, such as travel guide books, travel industry reviews and suggestions from local colleagues.  This approach  helps me focus in on the best hotel for my stay or one of my good clients.

Paul

I knew about Vieques, but just a little. I vaguely understood that it was an island off the coast of Puerto Rico used by the US Navy for target practice until local protests forced the Navy to give the island back to the residents. What I did not know was that during the entire time the navy was shelling the island, there were locals living on Vieques, locals born on the island that had to put up with the thunderous booms shaking their island and their homes every time the Navy began shooting or bombing.

About 18 months ago, W Hotels built a charming hotel on a beautiful beach they call W Retreats. As a member of Travel + Leisure magazine’s travel advisory board, we met here for a few days. I’ve got to admit, it’s tough to stay inside when stunning swimming pools and a beautiful beach beckon.

While I am not a big fan of some W Hotels with their occasional “We’re so hip” attitude; at Vieques I’m finding the hospitality is warm and welcoming and the facilities are superb. I would come back in a heartbeat. In addition to the hotel’s fine restaurants, there are some great, casual restaurants not far away on the island. If you visit Vieques, don‘t miss El Quenepo.

For those taking cruises into the Caribbean, we suggest basing your cruise out of San Juan, Puerto Rico. Instead of visiting just a few islands in a week (this is what happens when your cruise departs from Florida), when you cruise from San Juan, you are already in the very heart of the Eastern Caribbean. Great places such as Barbados, St. Maarten, St Barts, the British Virgin Islands, Martinique etc. are just a few cruising hours away. Most 7-day cruises departing from San Juan visit a
different island almost every day.

Though the flight to San Juan takes a couple hours more than flying to Miami, the cost is not all that much more. I looked at flights in September, as an example, and found that a flight from Oregon to Miami cost about $435 pp while a flight to San Juan was just $120 more.

We suggest combining 2-3 days of blissful beach and spa time in Vieques with your cruise from San Juan.

My brief experience in Vieques reminds me of my first visit to Cancun in the late 1970s. When we arrived, there were just a few hotels. Of course, that changed in a big way; come to the W Retreat in Vieques now. This too will change.

She explained that her mother recently called to see if she planned to cancel her Presidents Day cruise, but Wendy’s leaving her family’s cruise vacation plans unchanged. First of all she reminds us that the chance of a fatality white driving to the pier is 1 in 7,000 while the odds of a fatality on a cruise ship are 1 in six million.

However, Wendy is taking a few extra precautions. Of course she will make certain the entire family takes part in the lifeboat drill and that they memorize the location of their life boat and muster station. She will also see that sufficient life jackets are available in her cabin for the entire family (and that they are the right size). She’ll also look on board for the location where extra life jackets are stowed for those passengers who might not have time to return to their staterooms to retrieve their jackets. Finally, she’ll bring along a little flashlight, just in case of a power failure.

Today every cruise line and every captain is now under extra scrutiny – safety standards will  be elevated higher than ever. Notwithstanding, we choose our cruise lines carefully. First of all, we avoid cruise lines that broadcast every announcement in several languages. In the event of an issue, it could take some time to communicate with all the passengers. We also select those cruise lines that take safety seriously. While we dread the life boat drills, we appreciate that they take place. And we applaud those cruise lines that take roll during these drills to account for every passenger on the ship.

Finally, we’ll avoid today’s giant ships.  Evacuating a 4,000-passenger vessel must be far more difficult than ships ranging in size from 200-2000 passengers.  This is a subject authorities will explore in more depth in the months and years to come.

We share the sorrow of those families that have lost their loved ones on the Costa Concordia. At the same time it was heartwarming to learn about the hospitality of the residents of the little Tuscan island of Giglio who took so many passengers into their homes until they could begin their homeward journey. And we applaud the coast guard captain who commanded the irresponsible captain to reboard his sinking ship and assist with the evacuation. Vado Bordo, Cazzo!

Seabourn in the Aegean

We plan to cruise in late April through the beautiful Adriatic and the Aegean on the new Seabourn Quest. We can’t wait.

Just a year ago we flew to Incheon, South Korea, an intermediate stop on our journey to Southeast Asia. (As we see the pictures of North Korea’s Kim Jung Il’s funeral, we think back to our gray, icy cold day in South Korea, just a few miles from the demilitarized zone. Our trip would soon take us to Vietnam and Cambodia including a cruise on the Mekong from Tonle Sap Lake near Angkor Wat to a river port not far from Saigon.

Hanoi

Coming of age in the 60s, in the midst of the Vietnam conflict, I could not imagine every visiting Hanoi. (And thoroughly enjoying the experience.) From our base at the classic Hotel Metropole with its French-Vietnamese style, we explored this vibrant city. Built around a series of lakes and the Red River, we filled our camera’s memory cards with hundreds of photos. We think back fondly to our cooking class at the Hanoi Cooking School (including a great market visit and a great lunch.) We enjoyed our visit to the old city where each street is named after a particular craft or trade – we would gladly return for more. Our guide took us to Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum where we were instructed not to talk or put our hands in our pocket as we visited the embalmed hero (the years in the refrigerator have not been kind to him).

As much as we liked the city, we were not prepared for the heavy-hand of the communist government. Patriotic posters filled the streets. In some places community loudspeakers broadcast party propaganda twice daily. While the people were often very kind, one should avoid any provocation of the unsmiling police.

Halong Bay

Long high on our wish lists, we enjoyed the opportunity to board a ‘luxury junk’ (quite a pleasant experience) for a 24-hour cruise through the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Halong Bay. Unfortunately our weather was cold and the skies gray — not the best time for Kodachrome style postcard photos. Still it’s a must see in this part of the world.

Angkor Wat

We really enjoyed our visit to the massive temple complex of Angkor Wat. For me, the visit was enhanced by a private guide that took us to the temple complexes before dawn to watch the sun rise on the various monuments. Though pretty crowded with visitors, Angkor Wat really captured our imagination. I’d like to see it again. We also enjoyed the surrounding city of Siem Reap. Generally modern and clean, Siem Reap surprised us. While here, we suggest a stay (or at least a good meal) at the Hotel de la Paix. Overall our visit to Siem Reap and all of Cambodia was enhanced by the charm of the Cambodian people. We felt very welcome. Furthermore, Cambodia offers exceptional value for our travel dollar. There aren’t many more places where we can say that these days.

I was intrigued by the young boys and girls. Well-groomed and polite, these attractive young people would approach us and practice their English. Some were probably hoping for a little donation but many were just anxious to meet foreign visitors and practice their language. In spite of the many visitors that come to Cambodia, generally hospitable Cambodia remains pleasantly unspoiled.

Phnom Penh

When many visitors think of Cambodia’s capital, they cannot separate the city from the genocide committed by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. During our visit we went to see the site of the Killing Fields as well as the notorious prison in the city’s center. Just as visiting World War II concentration camps gives travelers an important and jarring perspective on life and inhumanity, these visits in Cambodia make one question how such tragedies can happen. How can we become so evil? On the positive side, the magnificent Royal Palace complex will stun you with its architectural beauty.

A final note: except for Hanoi, we suggest a visit between December and March. “Steamy Hot” just barely describes heat and humidity that pervades this region for the remainder of the year. With its more northerly location, Hanoi is more like Hong Kong with wonderful spring and fall seasons.

Actually, when our Crystal cruise concluded in Lisbon early in December, we took the opportunity to visit Paris before we returned home. We wanted to meet with our local contact in France who will help us arrange our October 2012 villa program in Provence. And, well, that’s as good an excuse as any for a few days in Paris.

We have more or less avoided Paris for the last several years in favor of the charms of France’s countryside. When we landed at Charles de Gaulle, it was cold and the grey skies were heavy. The congested traffic slowed our transfer into the city to a crawl. Had we made a mistake in coming?

Finally we reached our boutique hotel, the Espirit St. Germain near St. Sulpice (the church that played an important role in the Da Vinci Code) on Paris’ Rive Gauche. In spite of a slow check-in, the hotel looked great. On each side of the small registration desk, we found two welcoming lounges; they seemed more like living rooms than hotel lobbies. Each guest is invited to help themselves throughout the day to complimentary cocktails, wines and champagne and a good variety of soft drinks. When we reached our attractive room, the manager pointed out the complimentary fruit, a complimentary bottle of red wine, and mini-bar stocked with soft drinks and, finally, good Wi-Fi (all complimentary). The magic of Paris was beginning to arrive..

That afternoon we began the first of our three days wandering and exploring the delightful neighborhoods of Paris’ Left Bank. Just a block or so away we found a great indoor market. We drooled at the dozens of cheeses, wonderful varieties of meats and fresh seafood, even a section with Italian specialties. As we explored the surrounding area we encountered dozens of tempting little boutiques: chocolatiers, fashions (Christine loved the outrageous hat shop across the street), children’s toys and clothing etc. We also found dozens of highly specialized shops. One, for example, only sold little toy figures such as soldiers, kings, queens, politicians, farmers etc.; another shop specialized in first editions of old books, a third only sold hand-crafted writing papers. All offered superb quality.

The weather was cold but clear. It was a small price to pay for all the pleasures of our visit. Tourists were few but the locals were out shopping for Christmas. On December 8 we thought we heard carolers outside our hotel. When we opened the curtains, hundreds of Parisians were singing in a procession as they headed to St. Sulpice to celebrate the religious holiday of the Immaculate Conception. On another evening, when we crossed the Boulevard St. Germain des Pres, we saw that the entire street had been decorated with lights in the shape of champagne flutes with bubbles rising to the top. It was three of our best days of 2011.

Over the years we have really enjoyed our visits to Europe as the holidays approach. Dress warmly and savor the pleasures.

Scenes from the Paris Metro

After a day at sea on Tuesday cruising south along the coastline of Spain, we sailed into the sunny port city of Malaga. Though a few of us stayed in Malaga for the day, most took one of the ship’s excursions either to Grenada, to see the famed Alhambra, or to the historic city of Cordoba.

We’ve often felt that the Alhambra remains one of Europe’s most beautiful palaces. Perched in the hills overlooking Grenada, the Moors constructed the palace in classic North African style, with tranquil fountains and graceful reflecting pools. The palace’s Courtyard of the Lions remains one of the most beautiful spots in the country.

Thanks to Spain’s high-speed trains, another destination has recently been opened to cruise visitors, Cordoba. Early Wednesday morning we boarded a sleek new train that raced between Malaga and Seville at speeds approaching 250 km/hour (about 150 mph). Settled into comfortable seats we traveled quietly through the olive-tree covered countryside for about 70 minutes. The only indication of our speed was the occasional swaying of the car and, of course, watching automobiles creep (relatively speaking) along the highway.

The modern city of Cordoba does not seem to offer much to the visitor; rather most of its treasures are situated in the old historic section. To reach this area, we walked across a stone bridge built by the Romans. Once across the bridge we made our way through a warren of narrow streets, the old Jewish Quarter, to visit an historic synagogue. Filled with shops and restaurants, we spent the better part of our morning in this quarter. However we saved the best for last, the famed “Mesquita” of Cordoba.

Beginning in the 6^th Century, a basilica was built on the site of an ancient place of worship constructed by the Visagoths. During the Islamic period in Spain this church was destroyed in order to build a mosque on the site in 785 AD. No ordinary mosque, this was to be the most important Islamic place of worship in all in the West. Two subsequent additions enlarged the mosque to a truly impressive structure. In 1236, when the Christians reconquered Cordoba, the mosque was ‘purified’ and then converted back into a Christian cathedral. (www.catedraldecordobe.es) Today, in the center of the mosque’s hundreds of pillars and colorful arches, an impressive cathedral has been constructed. It’s one of the most amazing sights in Europe. Don’t miss it if you have an opportunity.

Last night, about midnight, we crossed through the Straits of Gibraltar to land, this morning, in Cadiz. Many guests headed for the marvelous cultural capitol of Spain, Seville; others explored the old city of Cadiz, where many explorers of the New World began their voyage.

Elaine Durst has caught a bug in her chest (but she’s doing better already); otherwise we’re all enjoying the Crystal Serenity and visiting Spain in the late fall sunshine.

Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine

In port in Cadiz, Spain

The glorious Mediterranean sunshine has lifted our spirits as we sail along the coastline of Spain.

Scheduled to sail from Barcelona last Sunday evening, many of us came in a few days early. Though most of us have been in Barcelona before, the city looks better than ever. The streets were meticulously clean, graffiti was noticeably absent and the locals were welcoming. We had forgotten just how much there is to see in Barcelona and how much we enjoyed the visit.

Several of us stayed at the Hotel Claris, once one of Barcelona’s grande dame hotels. Since we had not visited in several years, we were shocked when we arrived. Spanish designers had transformed the Claris into a contemporary masterpiece. From the inviting lobby to the exquisite roof-top terrace with its swimming pool, restaurant and views over the city, the Claris has rejoined the ranks of one of Spain’s best hotels.

Regardless of the charms of Barcelona, it felt great to board the Crystal Serenity, one of the world’s top 4-5 cruise ships. However the ship’s departure time was a bit close for Bob and Irma Miller. Scheduled to arrive about 3 pm on sailing day, their departure flight from Palm Springs had been cancelled. They jumped into a taxi and sped towards Los Angeles in an attempt to board their Lufthansa flight to Frankfurt. Alas, they arrived too late; however, Lufthansa placed them on a Swiss International flight to Zurich. With their connection in Switzerland, they only arrived in Barcelona at 7:05 pm on Sunday evening, 85 minutes before the ship would be closed for boarding. We were able to talk our way into the airport’s secure customs area to assist the Millers. Fortunately their baggage came out quickly so we found a taxi and headed for the pier. The ship’s staff was waiting for us as we arrived at the pier. Shortly after we boarded, the ship dropped its lines and began its journey.

Recently the Crystal Serenity underwent a complete makeover that replaced most of the carpets, fabrics and furnishings. Today she looks fresh and very inviting. Though larger than most of the other top cruise ships (1070 guests), over 600 crew members assure a top quality, personalized experience.

On Monday we stopped in Valencia for a visit. Though the city is known for its oranges and as the home of paella and the Lladro porcelain factory, Valencia has not been regarded as a particularly appealing destination for travelers. Today Valencia’s inner city is clean and inviting with grand buildings that remind us of the city’s wealth. Spain’s best known architect has designed an incredible complex known as the City of Arts and Sciences with a monumental aquarium, an I-Max theater and concert facilities. It was fun to explore the city’s large central market filled with dozens of tidy food stalls displaying Spain’s iconic hams and wonderful arrangements of vegetables. We really enjoyed Valencia and look forward to returning for more.

On Wednesday we called on Malaga. Some guests took an excursion to Grenada to visit the famed Al Hambra; some stayed in Malaga; and 6-7 of us will board one of Spain’s high-speed trains to visit the historic Spanish city of Cordoba. We’ll share our experiences with you in a few days’ time.

Meanwhile we’re all well and enjoying our visit. Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine

Though I vaguely knew of this boutique hotel that had once accommodated JFK, Bette Davis and Claudette Colbert, it was never top-of-mind until a recent 4-day stay in November.

A few years ago, a $60 million renovation turned The Surrey into a precious gem. Contemporary (without edginess or attitude), comfortable, welcoming, warm and personal – these are the descriptives that come to mind.

The rooms are spacious, well-planned for comfort (or for work) and highlighted by luxurious Duxiana beds and a pillow menu. You know that the bar, the restaurant and rooms service will be special since these functions are managed by celebrity chef Daniel Boulud.

Unlike the big hotels, the staff soon learns your name; for me, this was the best part. You can also expect warm, friendly and personalized service. They go out of their way to say ‘yes’.

Look carefully around the low-key lobby area for stunning works of art. My favorite is an arresting portrait of Kate Moss. Closer inspection reveals that this is not a photo; rather an amazing tapestry hung discreetly just past the elevators.

Located just steps from Central Park on the Upper East Side, they share the neighborhood with a number of museums (they enjoy a special relationship with the Whitney Museum), galleries, boutiques and restaurants. Walking in the neighborhood is great and comfortable.

We hope to go back before too long.

If you’re interested, let us help you become a VIP (and we’ll include continental breakfast and a spa credit) at The Surrey for your next New York City visit.

Cambodia… visit the country soon.
Before it changes, before it’s spoiled.

After nearly a week in Cambodia, in Siem Reap (for the temple complex we call Angkor Wat) and cruising on the Tonle Sap River on board our riverboat, la Marguerite, we’ve been disarmingly charmed by the warm hospitality of the Cambodians. This is the country that lost a significant percentage of its population during the genocide by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge regime between 1975 and 1979. So the country is young and very welcoming to visitors. Locals gladly pose for pictures without the demand for money. They welcome us into their simple accommodations. Many speak surprisingly good English in addition to their difficult and unique language.

Yesterday we stopped to visit a village known for its silk weaving. A young girl came up to me and asked, in English, “Where are you from?” She continued, “What is your name?” “How many brothers and sisters do you have?” “How long will you stay?” These are, of course, fairly easy phrases to memorize but the little girl went beyond those. When we asked her name, she said it was “Monika”. Of course, that was her English name; after all, her Cambodian name would be very difficult to remember.

I asked her if she knew any other language. She replied that she knew some German and French. Sure enough, she started talking to me in good enough German. Monika is ten years old.

Of course this is just one story from 1 of 9 million people. But it resembles the stories we heard from others. One of our travelers, Bob Carl, went to a bank to withdraw money (dollars, not Cambodian money) from an ATM. Since the bills he received were large, he went inside the bank. Though the bank was busy, a customer service lady came up to him and happily replaced his large bills with dollar bills and 5-dollar notes.

Not everyone speaks English; not everyone is as helpful or friendly. But our sense is that this is a great place to visit.

We’ve told you earlier about our visit to Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples in the extensive complex. In Phnom Penh, the country’s capital, we visited the stunning home of the King known as the Grand Palace. We also visited the grisly Killing Fields, where the Khmer Rouge executed millions and dispensed of their bodies in mass graves. Though that visit was, indeed, sobering, it was somehow even worse to visit the awful detention facility known as S-21 where thousands were incarcerated and brutally tortured before their eventual murder. The bare walls of the rooms where the prisoners were held almost spoke to us with the voices of the condemned.

ʘ

We’ve enjoyed La Marguerite. Accommodating just 88 guests and 44 crew members, we’ve been very comfortable during our cruise on two large river systems. The food has ranged from good to very good – we’ve particularly enjoyed the Asian dishes such as noodle soups, dim sum and, for lunch today, Luk Luk Beef. Though perhaps not as polished as an American cruise ship, the staff certainly makes every effort to please. The guides on our excursions ashore have been excellent.

We’re back in Vietnam again, this time in the southern region of the country. Unlike the temperatures in the north of the country, the air is quite warm and more humid. On Sunday we reach our final destination, Saigon, where we’ll spend the evening. There our group of travelers will dine in the former home of US Ambassador to South Vietnam, Henry Cabot Lodge. The next day, Monday, we begin our journey home.

Although there are a lot of congested chests and sniffles, we’re doing well.

Wish you were here!

 Paul and Christine

Hello!

A longtime friend, a highly regarded travel manager who has lived for years in Asia, told us to visit Hanoi before it changed completely. Of all of Asia’s cities, with their modern skyscrapers and busy economies, Hanoi still retains at least some of its colonial charm. The two of us arrived late on January 1 followed, over the course of the next two days, by all the members of our first 2011 Signature Journey. Though the trans-Pacific flights were long, everyone arrived in good spirits (and with all of their luggage!), eager to begin our journey.

Some of the early arrivals took advantage of the extra time to visit Hanoi’s traditional markets followed by a cooking class. Others ventured into the countryside to visit a village where westerners are rarely seen. All of us stayed in a beautiful hotel built by the French in 1901 and recently modernized to a superb standard. Still you could feel a bit of the old Indochine atmosphere.

The centerpiece of Hanoi must be its bustling Old Quarter where each of some 27 streets is named after a trade. Next, in the French Quarter, broad tree-lined avenues frame gracious colonial mansions (many of them are now embassies) and picturesque lakes break up the city’s chaotic traffic. Speaking of traffic, this city of nearly 8 million people has registered 3 million motorscooters – it seems that most of them are on the streets all the time and coming straight at you.

It is a ritual to stop by the Mausoleum and home of the revered Vietnamese patriot, Ho Chi Minh. It was interesting to see his embalmed body on display – what a difference 40 years makes. Several of us also stopped by the prison (now a state museum) known as the Hanoi Hilton where Johan McCain was incarcerated for several years.

When we left Hanoi on Wednesday, we drove west through the countryside bound for the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Halong Bay.

There we boarded a vessel described as a ‘luxury junk’ – the term made us a little nervous. (Of course we checked it out long before we traveled and felt very comfortable with it.) When we boarded the comforts and the warm hospitality soon erased any concerns; it was a great experience. Shortly after boarding the captain began navigating through the picturesque limestone islands called ‘karsts’. Even though it was colder than we expected and, unfortunately, overcast, the experience was magical, worth every moment of our journey.

Bob Carl, Rick and Jean Wills

After a morning of cruising on Thursday we headed back to Hanoi to fly to Cambodia, to visit another World Heritage Site, the incredible temple complex known we know as Angkor Wat. We divided our group of 20 into two groups; one for photographers who wanted to watch the sunrise on the temples and linger over the photo opportunities, and another that would depart at more humane hours.

Angkor Wat is, of course, just one temple complex of many built by the powerful Khmer empire that ruled the region from 900 to 1600 AD. During our stay here we visited 5-6 of the best known temples. Occasionally when we see a place we’ve long heard about, the site fails to live up to the expectations. That is certainly not the case with the magnificent complex at Angkor. We find it difficult to explain the exquisite complexity and grandeur built by this once powerful empire. In our estimation it certainly compares in scope with the pyramids and tombs we visit in Egypt.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

Tomorrow, Sunday, we leave Siem Reap to board our riverboat, La Marguerite, to begin a 7-day journey on the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers from Cambodia to Saigon. We’ll tell you more about it in a few days.

Apart from a few colds, a scrape or two from a minor fall, we’re all doing well and enjoying every day. Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine