Cordoba, Grenada, Cadiz and Seville

December 1, 2011 Cadiz, Spain

After a day at sea on Tuesday cruising south along the coastline of Spain, we sailed into the sunny port city of Malaga. Though a few of us stayed in Malaga for the day, most took one of the ship’s excursions either to Grenada, to see the famed Alhambra, or to the historic city of Cordoba.

We’ve often felt that the Alhambra remains one of Europe’s most beautiful palaces. Perched in the hills overlooking Grenada, the Moors constructed the palace in classic North African style, with tranquil fountains and graceful reflecting pools. The palace’s Courtyard of the Lions remains one of the most beautiful spots in the country.

Thanks to Spain’s high-speed trains, another destination has recently been opened to cruise visitors, Cordoba. Early Wednesday morning we boarded a sleek new train that raced between Malaga and Seville at speeds approaching 250 km/hour (about 150 mph). Settled into comfortable seats we traveled quietly through the olive-tree covered countryside for about 70 minutes. The only indication of our speed was the occasional swaying of the car and, of course, watching automobiles creep (relatively speaking) along the highway.

The modern city of Cordoba does not seem to offer much to the visitor; rather most of its treasures are situated in the old historic section. To reach this area, we walked across a stone bridge built by the Romans. Once across the bridge we made our way through a warren of narrow streets, the old Jewish Quarter, to visit an historic synagogue. Filled with shops and restaurants, we spent the better part of our morning in this quarter. However we saved the best for last, the famed “Mesquita” of Cordoba.

Beginning in the 6th Century, a basilica was built on the site of an ancient place of worship constructed by the Visagoths. During the Islamic period in Spain this church was destroyed in order to build a mosque on the site in 785 AD. No ordinary mosque, this was to be the most important Islamic place of worship in all in the West. Two subsequent additions enlarged the mosque to a truly impressive structure. In 1236, when the Christians reconquered Cordoba, the mosque was ‘purified’ and then converted back into a Christian cathedral. (www.catedraldecordobe.es) Today, in the center of the mosque’s hundreds of pillars and colorful arches, an impressive cathedral has been constructed. It’s one of the most amazing sights in Europe. Don’t miss it if you have an opportunity.

Last night, about midnight, we crossed through the Straits of Gibraltar to land, this morning, in Cadiz. Many guests headed for the marvelous cultural capitol of Spain, Seville; others explored the old city of Cadiz, where many explorers of the New World began their voyage.

Elaine Durst has caught a bug in her chest (but she’s doing better already); otherwise we’re all enjoying the Crystal Serenity and visiting Spain in the late fall sunshine.

Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine

Barcelona, Valencia and Malaga

Thursday, December 1

In port in Cadiz, Spain

The glorious Mediterranean sunshine has lifted our spirits as we sail along the coastline of Spain.

Scheduled to sail from Barcelona last Sunday evening, many of us came in a few days early. Though most of us have been in Barcelona before, the city looks better than ever. The streets were meticulously clean, graffiti was noticeably absent and the locals were welcoming. We had forgotten just how much there is to see in Barcelona and how much we enjoyed the visit.

Several of us stayed at the Hotel Claris, once one of Barcelona’s grande dame hotels. Since we had not visited in several years, we were shocked when we arrived. Spanish designers had transformed the Claris into a contemporary masterpiece. From the inviting lobby to the exquisite roof-top terrace with its swimming pool, restaurant and views over the city, the Claris has rejoined the ranks of one of Spain’s best hotels.

Regardless of the charms of Barcelona, it felt great to board the Crystal Serenity, one of the world’s top 4-5 cruise ships. However the ship’s departure time was a bit close for Bob and Irma Miller. Scheduled to arrive about 3 pm on sailing day, their departure flight from Palm Springs had been cancelled. They jumped into a taxi and sped towards Los Angeles in an attempt to board their Lufthansa flight to Frankfurt. Alas, they arrived too late; however, Lufthansa placed them on a Swiss International flight to Zurich. With their connection in Switzerland, they only arrived in Barcelona at 7:05 pm on Sunday evening, 85 minutes before the ship would be closed for boarding. We were able to talk our way into the airport’s secure customs area to assist the Millers. Fortunately their baggage came out quickly so we found a taxi and headed for the pier. The ship’s staff was waiting for us as we arrived at the pier. Shortly after we boarded, the ship dropped its lines and began its journey.

Recently the Crystal Serenity underwent a complete makeover that replaced most of the carpets, fabrics and furnishings. Today she looks fresh and very inviting. Though larger than most of the other top cruise ships (1070 guests), over 600 crew members assure a top quality, personalized experience.

On Monday we stopped in Valencia for a visit. Though the city is known for its oranges and as the home of paella and the Lladro porcelain factory, Valencia has not been regarded as a particularly appealing destination for travelers. Today Valencia’s inner city is clean and inviting with grand buildings that remind us of the city’s wealth. Spain’s best known architect has designed an incredible complex known as the City of Arts and Sciences with a monumental aquarium, an I-Max theater and concert facilities. It was fun to explore the city’s large central market filled with dozens of tidy food stalls displaying Spain’s iconic hams and wonderful arrangements of vegetables. We really enjoyed Valencia and look forward to returning for more.

On Wednesday we called on Malaga. Some guests took an excursion to Grenada to visit the famed Al Hambra; some stayed in Malaga; and 6-7 of us will board one of Spain’s high-speed trains to visit the historic Spanish city of Cordoba. We’ll share our experiences with you in a few days’ time.

Meanwhile we’re all well and enjoying our visit. Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine

New York Hotels: Forget the big names!

Next time you want to spend a few days in New York, forget the big name hotels such as the Ritz-Carlton, the Mandarin, the Waldorf Astoria and the others. Instead consider a luxurious, but much more personalized experience at The Surrey.

Though I vaguely knew of this boutique hotel that had once accommodated JFK, Bette Davis and Claudette Colbert, it was never top-of-mind until a recent 4-day stay in November.

A few years ago, a $60 million renovation turned The Surrey into a precious gem. Contemporary (without edginess or attitude), comfortable, welcoming, warm and personal – these are the descriptives that come to mind.

The rooms are spacious, well-planned for comfort (or for work) and highlighted by luxurious Duxiana beds and a pillow menu. You know that the bar, the restaurant and rooms service will be special since these functions are managed by celebrity chef Daniel Boulud.

Unlike the big hotels, the staff soon learns your name; for me, this was the best part. You can also expect warm, friendly and personalized service. They go out of their way to say ‘yes’.

Look carefully around the low-key lobby area for stunning works of art. My favorite is an arresting portrait of Kate Moss. Closer inspection reveals that this is not a photo; rather an amazing tapestry hung discreetly just past the elevators.

Located just steps from Central Park on the Upper East Side, they share the neighborhood with a number of museums (they enjoy a special relationship with the Whitney Museum), galleries, boutiques and restaurants. Walking in the neighborhood is great and comfortable.

We hope to go back before too long.

If you’re interested, let us help you become a VIP (and we’ll include continental breakfast and a spa credit) at The Surrey for your next New York City visit.

Don’t wait to visit Cambodia

Thursday, January 13, 2011
On the Mekong River at the Cambodian/Vietnamese border

Cambodia… visit the country soon.
Before it changes, before it’s spoiled.

After nearly a week in Cambodia, in Siem Reap (for the temple complex we call Angkor Wat) and cruising on the Tonle Sap River on board our riverboat, la Marguerite, we’ve been disarmingly charmed by the warm hospitality of the Cambodians. This is the country that lost a significant percentage of its population during the genocide by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge regime between 1975 and 1979. So the country is young and very welcoming to visitors. Locals gladly pose for pictures without the demand for money. They welcome us into their simple accommodations. Many speak surprisingly good English in addition to their difficult and unique language.

Yesterday we stopped to visit a village known for its silk weaving. A young girl came up to me and asked, in English, “Where are you from?” She continued, “What is your name?” “How many brothers and sisters do you have?” “How long will you stay?” These are, of course, fairly easy phrases to memorize but the little girl went beyond those. When we asked her name, she said it was “Monika”. Of course, that was her English name; after all, her Cambodian name would be very difficult to remember.

I asked her if she knew any other language. She replied that she knew some German and French. Sure enough, she started talking to me in good enough German. Monika is ten years old.

Of course this is just one story from 1 of 9 million people. But it resembles the stories we heard from others. One of our travelers, Bob Carl, went to a bank to withdraw money (dollars, not Cambodian money) from an ATM. Since the bills he received were large, he went inside the bank. Though the bank was busy, a customer service lady came up to him and happily replaced his large bills with dollar bills and 5-dollar notes.

Not everyone speaks English; not everyone is as helpful or friendly. But our sense is that this is a great place to visit.

We’ve told you earlier about our visit to Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples in the extensive complex. In Phnom Penh, the country’s capital, we visited the stunning home of the King known as the Grand Palace. We also visited the grisly Killing Fields, where the Khmer Rouge executed millions and dispensed of their bodies in mass graves. Though that visit was, indeed, sobering, it was somehow even worse to visit the awful detention facility known as S-21 where thousands were incarcerated and brutally tortured before their eventual murder. The bare walls of the rooms where the prisoners were held almost spoke to us with the voices of the condemned.

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We’ve enjoyed La Marguerite. Accommodating just 88 guests and 44 crew members, we’ve been very comfortable during our cruise on two large river systems. The food has ranged from good to very good – we’ve particularly enjoyed the Asian dishes such as noodle soups, dim sum and, for lunch today, Luk Luk Beef. Though perhaps not as polished as an American cruise ship, the staff certainly makes every effort to please. The guides on our excursions ashore have been excellent.

We’re back in Vietnam again, this time in the southern region of the country. Unlike the temperatures in the north of the country, the air is quite warm and more humid. On Sunday we reach our final destination, Saigon, where we’ll spend the evening. There our group of travelers will dine in the former home of US Ambassador to South Vietnam, Henry Cabot Lodge. The next day, Monday, we begin our journey home.

Although there are a lot of congested chests and sniffles, we’re doing well.

Wish you were here!

 Paul and Christine

Mesmerizing Vietnam and Cambodia

Saturday afternoon
Siem Reap, Cambodia

Hello!

A longtime friend, a highly regarded travel manager who has lived for years in Asia, told us to visit Hanoi before it changed completely. Of all of Asia’s cities, with their modern skyscrapers and busy economies, Hanoi still retains at least some of its colonial charm. The two of us arrived late on January 1 followed, over the course of the next two days, by all the members of our first 2011 Signature Journey. Though the trans-Pacific flights were long, everyone arrived in good spirits (and with all of their luggage!), eager to begin our journey.

Some of the early arrivals took advantage of the extra time to visit Hanoi’s traditional markets followed by a cooking class. Others ventured into the countryside to visit a village where westerners are rarely seen. All of us stayed in a beautiful hotel built by the French in 1901 and recently modernized to a superb standard. Still you could feel a bit of the old Indochine atmosphere.

The centerpiece of Hanoi must be its bustling Old Quarter where each of some 27 streets is named after a trade. Next, in the French Quarter, broad tree-lined avenues frame gracious colonial mansions (many of them are now embassies) and picturesque lakes break up the city’s chaotic traffic. Speaking of traffic, this city of nearly 8 million people has registered 3 million motorscooters – it seems that most of them are on the streets all the time and coming straight at you.

It is a ritual to stop by the Mausoleum and home of the revered Vietnamese patriot, Ho Chi Minh. It was interesting to see his embalmed body on display – what a difference 40 years makes. Several of us also stopped by the prison (now a state museum) known as the Hanoi Hilton where Johan McCain was incarcerated for several years.

When we left Hanoi on Wednesday, we drove west through the countryside bound for the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Halong Bay.

There we boarded a vessel described as a ‘luxury junk’ – the term made us a little nervous. (Of course we checked it out long before we traveled and felt very comfortable with it.) When we boarded the comforts and the warm hospitality soon erased any concerns; it was a great experience. Shortly after boarding the captain began navigating through the picturesque limestone islands called ‘karsts’. Even though it was colder than we expected and, unfortunately, overcast, the experience was magical, worth every moment of our journey.

Bob Carl, Rick and Jean Wills

After a morning of cruising on Thursday we headed back to Hanoi to fly to Cambodia, to visit another World Heritage Site, the incredible temple complex known we know as Angkor Wat. We divided our group of 20 into two groups; one for photographers who wanted to watch the sunrise on the temples and linger over the photo opportunities, and another that would depart at more humane hours.

Angkor Wat is, of course, just one temple complex of many built by the powerful Khmer empire that ruled the region from 900 to 1600 AD. During our stay here we visited 5-6 of the best known temples. Occasionally when we see a place we’ve long heard about, the site fails to live up to the expectations. That is certainly not the case with the magnificent complex at Angkor. We find it difficult to explain the exquisite complexity and grandeur built by this once powerful empire. In our estimation it certainly compares in scope with the pyramids and tombs we visit in Egypt.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat

Tomorrow, Sunday, we leave Siem Reap to board our riverboat, La Marguerite, to begin a 7-day journey on the Tonle Sap and Mekong Rivers from Cambodia to Saigon. We’ll tell you more about it in a few days.

Apart from a few colds, a scrape or two from a minor fall, we’re all doing well and enjoying every day. Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine

High Above Tehran – E-postcard 2 from India

We’re on our way home. Our particular flight from Delhi began at 5 am and takes us over Pakistan, the rugged mountains of Afghanistan and over Iran’s Tehran and Tabriz en route to Istanbul and home. Others took long non-stop flights directly to the US and five guests extended their journey to spend two days at a superb tiger reserve in central India. As we write we can see the rugged hills and snow-capped mountains of Turkey’s Kurdish region.

India’s national tourism office uses the slogan, “Incredible India”. While India is, indeed, incredible, we also find it nearly indescribable. Let us tell you about a recent day.

We left early this morning to visit Jaipur’s Amber Fort. There were a few gentle grumbles wondering why we were leaving so early and, after all, we had already seen two forts. We tried to reassure the troops that we had not lost our minds. When we approached the site and saw the magnificent fortress situated high astride the ridge of the mountain, the interest began to grow. At the entrance to the road leading up to the fort, we saw a long line of elephants waiting to take us up the mountain. This was getting interesting. While we waited to board our elephants, a local Rajastani man tied turbans on many of us. Properly equipped with regional headgear, we boarded the elephants and set off on our climb up the mountain. Touristy but fun.

And the fort? Stunning. Though abandoned to the elements hundreds of years ago, exposed to summer’s fiery heat, the seasonal monsoon rains and winter’s cold temperatures it remains an incredible structure. We walked through elegant courtyards, stunning rooms with walls inlaid with semi-precious stones, a hall of mirrors and tranquil gardens. We could only imagine the wealth of the Maharaja and the exqusite artistry and craftsmanship of the time.

Next we deviated somewhat from our itinerary to visit a small village. After some conversation with the elders, the villagers welcomed us in. Soon shy women clad in beautiful saris began to appear in the doorways, many of them with babies in their arms. Though this was a farm village, one young man (we thought he was about fourteen) told us in good English how he was enrolled in his first year of college studying engineering. When I inquired whether he would be able to find a job, he said that the demand for IT engineers was high. We peered into the homes, took our pictures, asked questions (and answered a few). Before we left the village, we walked to a nearby community school. With great pride the teachers proudly showed us their simple but tidy classrooms and we watched the kids play a game something like dodgeball. Before we left, the teachers assembled the kids to sing India’s national anthem for us. We loved the experience and so did the kids.

After a busy morning it was time for lunch. And what a lunch… We had planned a “Royal Welcome” at a beautiful hotel, once a residence owned by the Maharaja of Jaipur. When we approached the hotel a band played music the maharaja’s armies might have used a couple of centuries ago. A huge elephant, two camels, two horses and a curious monkey flanked the entrance to welcome us.

As the doors to the hotel opened, a pretty woman put a red bindi mark on our foreheads. As each couple entered the compound, a deep voiced man announced each traveler as we walked on a pathway specially lined for our arrival with thousands of rose and marigold petals. During an extensive lunch, a traditional Indian band played for a performance of Rajastanhi dance. (The lunch was delicious.) Before we returned to our hotel, we plunged into the crowds of the market to visit a spice merchant and to watch the preparations for India’s biggest festival of the year, Diwali, which begins November 5. A marvelous day.

We haven’t mentioned our visit to Agra and the Taj Mahal and two other World Heritage sights, the abandoned city of Fatepur Sikhri and our final two days in one of India’s most beautiful cities, Udaipur. Each of those visits deserves an individual postcard but we’ll let our returning travelers tell their tales. Meanwhile our minds are bursting with sights and experiences; it will take time to put everything in perspective. We could see that this huge country of is on the verge of a new greatness as its robust economy and rapid growth challenges China’s success. We’ll long remember the smiles of the attractive people, the women’s beautiful saris (the younger generation of women seem, increasingly, to prefer jeans), the grand temples and palaces, our evening and morning on the Ganges and the indescribable service in some of the world’s best hotels. A visit to India can be challenging and tiring and the flights are long. Yet, it’s the journey of a lifetime.

We can’t wait to go back to see more.

Wish you could have been with us,

Paul and Christine

Incredible, Inexplicable India – E-Postcard 1

Tuesday morning, Varanasi, India

Hello from one of the world’s oldest, continuously-inhabited cities and the birthplace of two of its largest religions, Hinduism and Buddhism. Yesterday evening we found ourselves riding in bicycle-powered rickshaws that plunged without hesitation into the thick of the indescribable pandemonium of fast-moving traffic en route to the shores of the fabled Ganges. Loud horns blared at us from cars, trucks, buses, tuk-tuks and motor scooters as they weaved around on both sides as they tried to pass or cross in front of us. Countless brightly-lit shops on both sides were filled with shoppers looking for saris, tires, vegetables, car parts, mobile phones, materials for the upcoming holidays, chips and snacks and condoms. India’s holy cows added to the bedlam as wandered through the crazy flood of traffic, seemingly oblivious to the chaos, or plopped themselves down in the middle of the occasional sidewalks.

When we reached the Ganges, we boarded a rickety looking (but sturdy) boat to watch the evening ceremonies performed by Hindu priests at the water’s edge at sundown every night of the year. Incense from the priests’ burners filled the air along with the clanging of hundreds of bells and the ritual chanting; all to bless Mother Ganges. When they raised large fire-filled chalices into the skies, signifying the conclusion of their ceremonies, our boatman rowed us downriver to watch the cremation ceremonies so important to Hindus. Right in front of us we watched 7-8 bodies burning rapidly on large pyres of wood consuming the departed as well as several bodies wrapped in brightly colored shrouds awaiting their turn. Each body was surrounded by the male members of the deceased’s family. To conclude the evening, a pretty little girl presented us with little saucer-sized bouquets of marigolds with a lighted candle in the center. As we gently lowered these little gifts to Mother Ganges into her waters, each of us prayed silently for the good health and fortune of our family and friends.

This is the best we can describe this overwhelming evening. The entire event is entirely foreign to anything we’ve ever experienced. We wouldn’t have missed it for anything but we relished the quietude in the sanctuary of our hotel.

We began this journey on October 22 as we arrived in India’s huge capital city, Delhi. Some of us flew eastward through Europe while some arrived from the other direction, flying through Asia. We’re so far away from Oregon that the flight time is about the same regardless of the direction we fly. It felt great to finally arrive in Delhi’s handsome new airport where our local host met us not in the baggage area with all the others but right at the end of the jetway from the aircraft and whisked us through lengthy immigration lines by taking us through the area reserved for officials and diplomats. Soon we reached our elegant hotel, the Taj Palace, where well-appointed Club Floor rooms awaited our arrival.

During the next two days we visited the handsome government buildings built by the British in the early 1900s, a magnificent structure (Humayans’s tomb) many call the precursor of the Taj Mahal and took off our shoes to visit the largest mosque in India. We boarded rickshaws to drive through the narrow lanes of Old Delhi while noisy commerce and tooting horns surrounded us. However the highlight of our stay in Delhi was our visit one evening to an Indian family. Our bus took us through Delhi’s dark neighborhoods to a newish 5-story building. We walked up four flights and rang the doorbell. There we met our charming hostess, Mrs. Prabeen Singh, along with her pretty daughter who recently began her practice as a child psychologist. During the next 45 minutes a series of fascinating local people arrived. Among them was the head of the Wall Street Journal in India, a Sikh gentlemen who publishes a prestigious journal on Indian affairs, a well-known physicist, an affable woman (who would host the King of Bhutan the following day at her accommodations at a noted tiger reserve), a woman who headed the department of comparative religions at a Delhi university, a coin expert and several others.

Our hostess, a noted cook, gave us a brief cooking demonstration and then we enjoyed fascinating conversation with her guests ranging from Indian-American politics (President Obama is scheduled to visit India in a few weeks), to family life, India’s school system, India’s struggles with Pakistan, Afghanistan and daily life in Delhi. We realized that it was a very unique (and enjoyable) opportunity to gain insight into this old but rapidly changing culture.

Tomorrow we depart Delhi for Agra where, in addition to the fabled Taj Mahal, we’ll see two additional UNESCO World Heritage sites and, just perhaps, do a bit of shopping. (The marble inlays and the jewelry are fantastic.) Meanwhile we’re all well and enjoying our visit to this remarkable country. We’ll write again in a few days.

Wish you were here!

Paul and Christine